The sleeve pulls taut across the elbow. Tface the side seamlines in a straight line across the closed darts. Such an appearance can be achieved when all elements of clothing design are selected to present the individual harmoniously. Stitch the new darts. Calf Circumference + 1" (2.5 cm) X X * 12. When this variation is in combination with a cylindrical torso, wider armscye extensions are required on the garment and the sleeve. At the elbow level, slash across the sleeve from the back to the front stitching line. Mark the ends of the adjusted wristline. Separate the cut edges enough at the capline to relax the fabric and restore the ease. Soft body tissues may concentrate along the wrist area. Fitting Analysis The garment is baggy around the waist area. Mark across the underarm seam area above the original armscye seamline to indicate the correct amount of adjustment. We wish to thank our colleagues and Brigham Young University for their encouragement and help. Each alteration procedure is accompanied by meaningful identifica tion of the figure variation causing the fitting problem. Clip the front neck seam allowance across the center front area. A subse quent procedure does not cancel a previous alteration. Forward Arm Joints (bodice) 242 46. Separate each set of cut edges evenly to relax the fabric and restore the ease at the bustline. To increase width, separate each set of cut edges evenly to relax the fabric and restore the ease at the bustline. Blend into the original near the top of the cap and near the ends of the armscye extensions. The increased length relieves the strain at the top of the sleeve and underarm. They should be considered in the layout of pattern pieces on the fabric and in relation to the body areas on which they will be seen Outline in garment design is established by the garment edges. Blend into the original at the elbow line. Insert fabric strips. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The greater inward curvature at the elbow joint requires increasing the fabric length and width over the elbow area and repositioning the underarm seam at the wristline. Increase the armscye length by slashing from the armscye to but not through the neckline near the shoulder seamline. The horizontal, cap fitting line curves upward at the center. The garment shaping, the midriff, and the waistline align with the body contours. Stitch the darts. The sleeve shaping aligns with the elbow point; the elbow bends easily and comfortably. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Reposition the waistline darts to align the dart tips with the bust points; shorten the underarm darts. Draw each new shoulder seamline in a straight line across the stitched darts. When this variation is in combination with an oval rib cage, narrow armscye extensions are required on the garment and sleeve. Slash Methodfitting garment only If the garment armscye has been corrected, lengthen the sleeve cap before attaching the sleeve to the garment. Separate the cut edges evenly along the lower sleeve area enough to permit the sleeve to slide freely over the arm. The distance from the shoulders to the bustline is shorter than average; the distance is greater from the bustline to the waist. The length variation may affect the length of the joints or the space between the arm hinge and the bustline. Mark the new side seamline position at the underarm dart. Pivot Method If the garment armscye depth has been corrected, lengthen the sleeve cap before attaching the sleeves. 274 59 long upper rib cage If the length of the armscye and the center front are correct but the garment shaping is too full and the center back is too short, lengthen only the back. Fitting Analysis The fabric near the lower armscye areas hangs in vertical folds near the armscyes on the front and back The excess garment width inhibits arm movement; the front armscye cuts against the arm hinge. Slash Methodfitting garment only Slash from the back quarter position at the wristline up to the capline. Stitch the darts. Blend the new armscye into the original at the arm hinge area. Diagonal wrinkles pull from the blade and chest areas to the underarm. Insert fabric strips. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Narrow the side area at the waistline. If the sleeves are attached and the armscye size is correct, adjust only the sleeves. 'I&per as needed at the top of the cap and at the wrist. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration - Bundle Book + Studio Access Card: Liechty, Elizabeth, Rasband, Judith, Pottberg-Steineckert, Della: 9781501318207: Amazon.com: Books Books Arts & Photography Performing Arts Buy new: $104.00 List Price: $120.00 Save: $16.00 (13%) Insert fabric strips. 69 short midriff BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The lower ribs and vertabrae may be lighter than average. Each design element or principle is individual and can be studied separately, yet when incorporated into a design, each is interdependent on every other. Contrasting an element in garment design with an undesired trait may camouflage or minimize the trait. 84 large wrists BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The bone and ligament structures forming the wrist joints are heavier than average. 82 large forearms BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The heavier bone, muscle development, and concentration of soft tissues are larger than average at the forearm area. Release the side seams. Pivot Method Adjust for width first. Deposits of soft body tissue are minimal. Slash Methodfitting garment only Slash from the mid-armscye to the waistline. Slash Methodfitting garment only Mark the back quarter of the sleeve at the wristline. Stitch the darts. 81 large elbows BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The bone and ligament structures forming the elbow joint are heavier than average. The lower armscye area cuts against the arm hinges and wrinkles form in both the garment and sleeve. Mark the end of each seamline at the armscye areas. Slash Methodfitting garment only Near each side seam, slash the garment front from the armscye to the waistline. Narrow the darts. Make a parallel tuck completely across the back area at the bustline to remove the excess fabric length. Long Lower Arm 309 72 arm length variations Slash Methodfitting garment only Align the center front and center back of the body centers. web pages Wide Rib Cage 266 56. When stitching the tuck, place the waistline area of the garment uppermost on the machine. If the grain is distorted due to poor garment construction, the garment will twist on the figure, causing poor fit. Make a parallel tuck completely across the back area at the bustline to remove the excess fabric length. Remove the original stitching. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The lift of the bust contour requires raising the front dart tip positions. Long Arm Joints (bodice) 238 44. Short Legs 182 24. 264 54 narrow chest/upper back Pivot Method Mark new armscye seamlines in the garment area at the edges of the chest (blade) so that they lie in comfortable and attractive positions. The added width relieves the strain on both the garment and the sleeve; each aligns properly with the body structure. When the arm is bent the sleeve slides upward and binds against the arm. Diagonal wrinkles radiate from the bust curves to the garment edges and the center front. Release the side seams. The bone structures forming the arm joints may be smaller than average also. See 65 Large Bust. Structural line in fabric is created by the position of the yarns as they cross each other at the right angles or as they loop vertically or horizontally. This book is the answer for professionals and students who want beautifully fitted and comfortable clothing. 332 82 large forearms Pivot Method Release the underarm seams and the darts on both sleeves. 83 inward rotation of the elbow BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis When the arms are relaxed, palms forward, the arm curves toward the body more than average at the elbow. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen the sleeve at the capline. To correct the length, slash completely around the sleeve above the elbow line. Insert fabric strips. Publish Date 1986 Publisher Fairchild Publications Language English Pages 344 Previews available in: English Subjects 256 257 50 erect upper back Pivot Method Release the shoulder seams. Fitting Analysis The center of the darted or eased area of the sleeve should align with the elbow point. After straightening the arm, the wristline remains too high and becomes annoying. Longer, wider darts result. Large Legs 198 32. The bust fitting line remains level. Move the dart tip toward the front equal to one-half this amount. Either factor decreases the length from the shoulder to the scyeline. If the garment was not fitted properly, remove the excess armscye length at the shoulder seam and taper to nothing at the neckline. Be the first one to, Fitting & pattern alteration : a multi-method approach, Advanced embedding details, examples, and help, urn:lcp:fittingpatternal0000liec:lcpdf:1a29a10d-5c5a-4646-91b3-ae532a423bb9, urn:lcp:fittingpatternal0000liec:epub:837bf85b-6395-48e2-bda6-dcbc78b7f728, Terms of Service (last updated 12/31/2014). Fitting Analysis The fabric is loose along the edges of the chest or the blades and the underarm areas. Restore the armscye size with a dart in each lower armscye area. The principles of design include balance, proportion, scale, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony. 302 303 70 large waist Pivot Method Release the side seams. Large Thighs at Sides 190 28. Adjust the tuck width evenly to lift the underarm dart into the correct position. For example, shortening arms or lengthening a top. Use the procedure indicated for Pivot Method. Increase the darts equal to the forward adjustment made at the wrist. Fitting Analysis The armscye cuts against the arm hinges. This permits the garment area to lie smoothly against the chest and the upper back. part three measurement chart Body Measurement + Ease Back Front LOWER TORSO & LEG R L R 1. A pattern can be altered and adjusted three ways: 1. Trim the widened seam allowances. 65 large bust 290 291 65 large bust 66 small bust BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The bust development is less than the average which is a B cup; the circumference at the bustline is smaller. Less armscye length also may be required at the shoulder. The garment silhouette should achieve vertical and horizontal balance and pleasing proportional relationships, and it should avoid emphasiz ing a figure variation considered undesirable. For example, narrow vertical lines and spaces may be used to reinforce and emphasize height. Follow the crosswise grain. Are you sure you want to delete your template? The higher position of the waistline on a jacket and other semi-fitted garments in which the bodice and skirt are cut in one may create unattractive body proportions. 292 293 66 small bust Separate each set of cut edges equally at the armscye to gain an amount of width equal to the adjustment at the side seam area. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The smaller waist circumference requires less fabric width at the waistline. To increase width, spread the cut edges equally at the scyeline to relieve the tension and restore the ease. Restorations do not introduce inaccuracies. Narrow Hips 154 14. Reshape the side panel so that the greatest curvature is at the bustline. Even fiction guides will get out-dated occasionally|The Fitting Book: Make Sewing Pattern Alterations & Achieve the Perfect Fit You Desire So you must produce eBooks The Fitting Book: Make Sewing Pattern Alterations & Achieve the Perfect Fit You Desire speedy if you want to gain your residing this fashion|The Fitting Book: Make Sewing Pattern . 295 66 small bust 67 flared lower ribs BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The front of the rib cage slopes outward excessively from the chest to the lower edge. Separate the cut edges equally at the wristline until the sleeve moves freely and the wristline lowers and aligns with the wristbone when the bent arm is straightened. Thin Arms 326 80. Itiper to nothing at the capline. Draw each new side seamline in a straight line parallel to the original from the waistline to the armscye seamlines. The midriff and waistline rise onto the larger body areas and appear to be too small. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The smaller girth of the wrist requires less fabric width at the wristline. Follow the lengthwise grain to a point 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the scyeline. Prominent Pubic Area 174 21. If the sleeves are attached and the armscye size is correct, adjust only the sleeve. The larger garment area and the fuller shaping relaxes over the bust. By slashing and spreading or overlapping along pattern lines to increase or decrease dimensions. Short Lower Torso 128 3. Slash Methodfitting garment only If the garment armscye was decreased at the underarm or the shoulder, adjust the sleeve width to correspond to this alteration before attaching sleeves to the garment. Large Arms 324 79. 298 299 68 long midriff Pivot Method Release the entire waistline and side seams. To prevent enlarging the sleeve at the elbow, part of the elbow darting may be transferred to the wristline and released. Insert a fabric strip. On the back of the sleeve, slash from the end of the armscye extension diagonally over to the elbow mark; continue diagonally back to the end of the wristline. Adjust sleeves as directed above. Thigh Circumference + 1" (2.5 cm) UPPER TORSO &> ARM 13. If the sleeves are attached and the armscye size is correct, adjust only the sleeves. Slash Methodfitting garment only Only the dart stitching line positions are affected. This procedure transfers part of the elbow darting to the wrist edge. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen and lengthen the sleeve at the elbow area. Each procedure has been developed to keep necessary restorations to a minimum. 3. Teachers, students, seamstresses, fit ters, and tailors agree that individualized fitting and pattern alteration are two of the most frustrating tasks in clothing construction. Thke in the back seam width at the wrist until the adjustment is equal to the increase made at the front wrist. Narrow each side of the cap equal to onefourth of the total width decrease. Make the tuck parallel to the wristline. Insert a fabric strip. At the scyeline, take in the garment areas equally until the excess fabric is removed; retain sufficient ease. This relieves the strain and permits the armscyes and sleeves to align properly over the arm joints. The narrower armscye extensions on the garment and the sleeve bring the fabric closer to the body surface. Short Upper Rib Cage 276 61. 280 281 62 low or pendulous bust position Pivot Method Mark the position for new underarm dart tips directly below those of the original darts. At the scyeline, let out both front and back seam allowances equally to relax the fabric and restore the ease, Thper to nothing at the waistline. We have carefully incorporated consistency in approach. Stitch the new darts from the tip to the waistline. These factors increase the arm circumference at any point along the entire arm. THm the excess width from the neckline contour. 75 large shoulder joints BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The bones forming the joint structure are larger than average. T&per each new side seamline straight from the original at the armscye to the new waistline position. If the center front area is too long over the bust, form a horizontal tuck at the bustline. reading Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration Diagonal wrinkles radiate from the b.ust curves to the garment edges. Mark a new, front side seam in a straight line across the closed dart. USING THE ELEMENTS PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES * Change Required Shorten the upper center back area. Fitting Analysis The fabric is taut at the bustline; this attracts undue attention to the amount of bust development. The Elements of Design LINE Line is the most influential element of design in the presentation of the figure and in the fitting process. Restore the back and front waistline circumferences. arms 72 Arm Length Variations 73 Long Arm Joints (sleeves) 74 Short Arm Joints (sleeves) 75 Large Shoulder Joints 7G Small Shoulder Joints 77 Forward Arm Joints (sleeves) 78 Large Arms 79 Thin Arms 80 Large Upper Arms 81 Large Elbows 82 Large Forearms 83 Inward Rotation of the Elbow 84 Large Wrists 85 Small Wrists 308 72 arm length variations BASIC FITTING THEORY Long Upper Arm Figure Analysis The elbow position determines upper and lower length variations. Slash Methodfitting garment only Only the dart stitching line positions are affected. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The change in length above and below the crest of the bust requires lowering the side darts and shortening the waistline darts to permit the fabric shaping to align properly with the bust contour. Adjustment of the armscye size and the sleeve is unnecessary. If the sleeves are over-eased or the garment is eased to the sleeve, a similar appearance and discomfort is created because either factor reduces the size of the armscye; reset the sleeve properly. The multi-m, Nancy Zieman's pattern fitting approach is easy - no cutting, slashing, tucking or pinching--just logical and easy, Create the best fit for your body! The adjustment may be required on the back or the front of the garment or on both areas. The widths of the existing darts may be increased or an additional dart may be formed. Mark parallel to the original seamline from the scyeline to the elbow line. Insert fabric strips. Follow crosswise grain. Behind this seemingly Let out the back seam at the dart area until the fabric relaxes over the elbow. Stitch the darts and the waistline. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration pdf GARMENT &> PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen the side seam area at the waistline. Small Shoulder Joints 320 77. If the sleeves are attached and the armscye size is correct, adjust only the sleeve. It measures the distance between two points, encloses and divides space, and defines shape. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen the upper sleeve cap area. Chest Length & Bust Contour 20. Unsere Partner sammeln Daten und verwenden Cookies zur Personalisierung und Messung von Anzeigen. This increases the width between the arm joints. Retain the original dart center folds. Side Seam Length / X X 5. The spacing between the ribs may be less or the spine may be shorter than average in the area between the waist and the lower rib cage. The hand extends farther from the body. The garment silhouette may or may not define the body silhouette. A Pattern Language 9780195019193 You can use this book to design a house for yourself with your family; you can use it to work with your neighbors to imp 316 95 45MB Designing Clothes with the Flat Pattern Method: Customize Fitting Shells to Create Garments in Any Style 9781631593604, 1631593609 Properly fitted bras with adequate support minimize the variation and help to prevent further flaccidness of the supporting tissues. Widen each dart at the side dartline to absorb the width gained at the side seam area. Every textbook comes with a 21-day "Any Reason" guarantee. Slash Methodfitting garment only Form a parallel tuck near the waistline completely around the garment. Large Wrists 336 85. If the elbow does not straighten as much as average when the arm is relaxed, the semi-bent joint will maintain a larger circumference around the elbow area. 57 cylindrical-shaped torso (rib cage) BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The shape of the rib cage is more round than average. Move the dart tip toward the side equal to one-half the dart width adjustment. Tkke up shoulder area equally at the back neckline until the blade fitting line is level. Release the underarm seam and the darts. The circumference of the waist is more nearly equal to that of the rib cage and the hips. YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves. Move the dart tip toward the side equal to one-half this amount. Shoulder Tip Width + 14" (0.G cm) X X X X X X 25. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The larger elbow girth requires more fabric width and length over the elbow area.
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