It takes some practice to dial in the sweet spot for the devices with anti-panic handles. If you have any questions, please Live Chat or call us at 877-666-7352. "langId": -1 We will continue to put flight time on the Trango Vergo and will report back with a long-term review. "Discounted items" includes items on sale or discounted via coupon code or use of MJ$. The intent of the program is to provide our loyal customers with a way to buy great gear for less. The following is an interview with Product Manager Adam Sanders, on creating the Vergo. "ESTIMATED_SHIP_DAYS_|_0":"4" Many years of grigri use have trained my muscles to work vertically not horizontally. "ItemImage467" : "/wcsstore/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore///s7d1.scene7.com/is/image/MoosejawMB/10321689x1013005_zm?$product1000$", What didnt come so easily was releasing the rope once it had become locked between the plates. The device can be used for lead belaying, top-rope belaying, and rappelling, all with the added security of a brake assist in case the climber is compromised by rock or icefall, a medical emergency, or burnt hands. The Vergo is a new style of brake assist belay device from Trango. The thinnest single ropes on the market today are only 8.5mm, so having a belay device that can handle these thin ropes certainly adds value. Some of the devices we tested began with an automatic advantage in this category the ability to rappel two strands. We designed the Vergo with ergonomics in mind, meaning that the most comfortable way to use the Vergo is also the safest way. All rights reserved. "catentry_id" : "6572596", You dont have to defeat spring tension, and it holds a climber in a static position without slipping or requiring brake hand tension. $2199. The BD ATC Guide adds another ounce to your harness but not much more bulk. Holding the Vergo properly felt natural after only a few belay sessions. }); In "active" models, braking is created by a pinching mechanism inside the device itself; "passive" models rely on a pinch between the carabiner and the device to hold the rope. This device works for all types and styles of climbing where only a single rope is used. Overall I say it's not a grigri replacement but the ergonomic benefits could be seen in future designs. Someone must be present to inspect, sign, and accept delivery, so we will call you to schedule delivery. Also the sharp end is threaded opposite as a regular atc and the lever is opposite facing of grigri, adding to the confusion. Trango addressed manufacturing comprehensively, and replacement units werent shipped out until January 2019. Privacy | Cookies | Terms. , If you're looking for the best value out there, we've picked out a few that we consider exceptional. Trango has recently discovered that the handles on some Vergo belay devices . The Petzl GriGri and GriGri+ feed slack well with little friction, but can sometimes encourage a technique that can reduce the device's safety, especially if the climber is close to the ground. Climbers used to get dropped on grigris when belayers let go of . Smooth feeding and lowering complete the experience. They still remain my favorite belay device available. This catch can be seen on both sides of the device, so that it can be loaded either way and still function the same. Since we like it so much and think it is worth recommending, we think it presents solid value at the price. If you pull back too far or too quickly the device will stop lowering. To help, Trango has printed this instruction on the device. "Color_|_BLACK":"2" Lead fall catches initially felt harsh because there is no spring pressure to overcome. wcTopic.subscribe("QuickInfo_attributesChanged", function(catEntryAttributes) { It sports a lightish weight (122g), compact design and a unique ergonomic way to feed out rope to the leader. Be sure to read the Camp Matik manual carefully to learn how to properly belay with it. Tube devices require the simplest motion to take or feed slack and receive the best scores in this category because of it. V ukazovek by ml leet v drce pro . FINAL SALE: For safety reasons, we cannot accept returns on load-bearing climbing equipment. The Vergo is similar in design to the Cinch and though Trango says that it has been totally redesigned from the ground up, the principles by how it operates are the same but it has been improved in several ways: the handle attachment point has been moved from the aluminum half to the steel half and has been lengthened; the geometry of the releas. MSRP: $89.95 One of the questions I hear from dealers and customers fairly commonly is "is this a Cinch 2?" The Vergo uses the mechanical principles that were used in the Cinch, and certainly shares some of its DNA. Users can opt-in to the program while checking out on Moosejaw.com or at one of our stores or at any time within 30 days of purchase to accrue the MJ$ earned on that purchase. https://www.moosejaw.com/product/trango-vergo-belay-device_10321689, [ Like most of us, his passion was kindled in the climbing gym but soon carried him outside after beholding the mighty Diamond on Longs Peak and deciding he needed to climb it. GearLab is reader-supported. Unlike many other active assist belay devices, there is no anti-panic feature on the lowering lever. We stay up to date on the newest product releases, purchasing them and putting them through a vigorous testing process. The Revo is a perfect device for any single pitch climbing, and was a surprise favorite of all who used it due to its simplicity and super smooth handling. It isn't difficult, but you can't just hand the device off to your partner if they don't know how to use it correctly. The "Est. Really like this belay device - it's a very similar idea to the Gri Gri, but smaller, lighter, and with a simpler mechanism. Moosejaw Reward Dollars cannot be earned on Gift Cards. The GriGri+, Camp Matik, and Edelrid Eddy all have anti-panic levers. Savello Kursi Kantor Staff - Vergo HT1 - Mekar Furniture - Vergo HT 1 di Tokopedia Promo Pengguna Baru Cicilan 0% Kurir Instan. Complete bikes will ship 4-6 Day for $4.95, loc_en_US, sid_10321689, prod, sort_[SortEntry(order=FEATURED, direction=DESCENDING), SortEntry(order=SUBMISSION_TIME, direction=DESCENDING)], Smoothest feeding locking-assist device available, Emphasizes ergonomics and human-device interaction to deliver exceptionally safe performance, Geometry reduces the likelihood of misuse, There is never a need to override the device, even when feeding slack for a clip, Assembled in the USA of Domestic and Foreign Parts. The Vergo is available in four anodized colors. "ItemImage" : "/wcsstore/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore///s7d1.scene7.com/is/image/MoosejawMB/10321689x1012905_zm?$product1000$", Features of Trango Vergo. We recommend a round-stock carabiner to maximize bite. Brake assist, manual, and auto-block modes all in one device, Lowering and rappelling more tiring than standard tube style, Non-intuitive and specific technique for use in auto-block mode. Although the assisted braking models all provide the ability to lock the device and rest hands-free, they often exhibit narrow ranges and jerkiness when lowering. That's because, when done properly, the saddle hunter is connected to the tree 100% of the time. The Matik and Eddy locked up more than the GriGri+, but all require a deft hand that does improve with practice. Still, it isn't that hard to master the GriGri's technique, and for experienced users and regular climbers, this device is still our top choice. Downsides aside, the emergency backup performed flawlessly during all our tests, and every climber who used it was amazed at its ease and simplicity to learn. "ESTIMATED_SHIP_DAYS_|_0":"4" It is important to keep the brake hand on the rope, although a very light grip will do, as the device effectively locks up for you. Compact design, fits easily into your hand. Belay devices are used with climbing ropes to protect the climber while climbing, to arrest a fall or while being . Weights range from 2.0 to 13.0 ounces. For climbers on a budget, and especially those who participate in a wide variety of climbing disciplines, our recommendation is the Black Diamond ATC Guide. It offers excellent slack feeding and take-up as well as and comparable size and weight. Beal Bridie Trango Vergo Petzl GriGri+ Prusik Hitch Figure 8 Plate And Friction Hitch An ATC Device For sure, according to many buyers, a Madrock Safeguard is a great device when you are using it for saddle hunting. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. "catentry_id" : "2734168", Very easy and positive to use. Because of this great design, its advantages include the smoothest paying out of slack of any device that adds redundancy to the belay. The slots in the tube allow the belay carabiner to pinch the rope against the body of the device, creating enough bite to catch a leader fall. Ship Date" is the date we expect items to leave our warehouse so add your chosen shipping speed to see when it will show up at your door. These devices can also be hard to master for people with small hands, which may include children. And during falls, the Vergo reliably locks down. It helps climb and descend from the trees with added safety and protection. The Edelrid Eddy and Mad Rock Lifeguard have more friction, making it challenging to pay rope out quickly. There is no anti-panic feature with this device. Add to cart $109.95. Secondly, we assess for versatility, scoring models that can accommodate two ropes a bit higher. They are also the easiest to learn how to use and are most climbers' introduction to belaying. eval("shoppingListJSPDP.deleteItemFromCart();"); When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Ideal for Multi-Pitch and Alpine Climbing, How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing, Best Climbing Harnesses for Women of 2023, the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews, Easy catch and hold, feeds slack smoothly, smooth lowering, handles ropes down to 8.5mm, Anti-panic handle, top rope and lead modes feed smoothly, wide range of rope diameters (8.5 - 11mm), Compact, ergonomically pays out slack while lead belaying, easy to use, Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value, Lightweight, small, great value, strong braking assistance, A bit clunky, can only use one rope, takes time to master techniques, Expensive, switching modes can be annoying, panic handle locks up easily, Too much friction pulling slack while top-rope belaying, hard to find the lowering sweet spot, Rappelling and lowering autoblock is hard on the shoulders, brake assist friction depends on carabiner used, The gold standard remains the best and most popular belay device available today, Excellent assisted braking belay device for both beginners and experienced users, An exceptional device for giving lead belays on the market, but it comes up short for other uses, An excellent value for multi pitch climbing, rappels, and double rope ascents, A great belay device for light-and-fast climbers and alpinists on hard multi pitch routes. Horizontal feeding for more efficient slack management. We independently buy, test, and rate all the products we review. Over the past 12 years, we've tested over 26 different individual models, with 17 choices highlighted in our updated review. , Both of the GriGri models performed especially well in this regard, as did the Camp Matik. Feeding slack quickly requires defeating the assisted braking mechanism. Compared to the GriGri, the Vergo also has some notable drawbacks. "catalogId": "10000001", This is a pretty huge product launch and will surely become a . All in all a very neat unit. The first is that the handle has an anti-panic feature. Great alternative to the Madrock Safeguard that has been raved over. It works up to 10.7mm, but works best at < 10mm. }, It accepts ropes from 8.9 to 10.7 mm, is assembled in the USA, and is CE- and EN-certified. "ItemThumbnailImage" : "/wcsstore/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore///s7d1.scene7.com/is/image/MoosejawMB/10321689x1012549_zm?$thumb225$" And with the attractive price, it may appeal to new assisted-brake users. Simplest and easiest to learn belaying techniques, Ideal for belaying your second on multi-pitch climbs. Because of this, we actually find it the most enjoyable device for belaying a leader. As you can see, the cam shape and design is very similar with these two devices, and when the + is in lead mode, they feel very much the same while feeding out slack. Saddle Hunting is Safe. To free the rope, a belayer must use their left hand on the device to slightly rotate the plates. The Trango Vergo is very similar to the Petzl GriGri, with some important differences. wcTopic.subscribe("DefiningAttributes_Resolved", function(catEntryId, productId) { Amount to free shipping $99.00Total excl. }); While it doesn't work in the same manner as a traditional auto-block device, the Vergo can be used to belay a second climber off the anchor in the same manner as the other active assist devices. Both of the GriGris are also now capable of handling ropes down to 8.5mm. Sorry, this product is only available in select stores, Sorry, this product is not available for store pickup, Sorry, this product is not available for ship to store. For instance, to catch a fall with a tube-style device, the belayer must hold the rope down by their hip while also gripping tightly to the rope to keep it from slipping. Also, the device needs to be clipped to the harness in the opposite direction than most belay devices, with the brake strand closer to the belayer's chest and the climber strand further away and is then rotated sideways for use while lead belaying. The Pistol-Grip Position: to feed slack with the Camp Matik you use your index finger and thumb to squeeze this black trigger on the bottom. Let us know! "displaySKUContextData" : "false", While it does take a little bit of practice to get the new style of belaying ingrained, we found that compared to a lot of active assist devices, this one was quicker and easier to learn. Still, this device combines the functionality of ABDs with the light weight and versatility of auto-blocking tube devices, making it a great choice for difficult multi pitch and alpine climbs. The program is FREE to join and membership is ongoing until or unless the user requests to be removed or is removed due to abuse of the program. ShooterMike While it isn't as inexpensive as the tube-style devices that don't have auto-block capabilities, we think that the extra couple of bucks for auto-blocking capability greatly enhances the value if you ever intend to do any multi-pitching. The brilliance is that the device functions exactly like a simple tube, and the belayer uses the same simple belay technique. The ability to take and give slack quickly and precisely is important to ensure a good belay - especially when close to the ground. }, {id: '', name: '', image: '', type: '', components: {}, skus: []}, [], "shoppingListJSPDP", "0", "0"); To switch modes, first unlock the dial with a thin, stiff object. On Moosejaw.com, just sign-in on any page to see your available balance. The Revo does not in any way assist with braking but simply provides an emergency backup, the first device that we are aware of that works in this manner. The Trango Vergo initially launched in July 2016 to much fanfare. No matter which device you choose, it's important to tie a knot in the ends of the rope. He bases himself out of Ouray, Colorado. You may choose to leave the Moosejaw Rewards program at any time by logging in and clicking on the Opt out Rewards Program link within the My Account Summary page, Email, calling 877-MOOSEJAW (877-666-7352) or in-store with help from our employees. Moosejaw Rewards Our experts test thousands of products each year using thoughtful test plans that bring out key performance differences between competing products. This statement seemed to be a jab at the unprecedented leader of assisted-braking devices, the Petzl GRIGRI. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support. The Trango Vergo Belay Device is a climbing device for safe belaying. It lowers smoothly and jerk-free, largely due to the absence of an anti-panic mechanism. Belaying with the ClickUp+ on a peaceful afternoon in the sun at Smith Rock. "COLOR_|_Black":"1" We've spent a lot of time on the rock, so we feel more than equipped to bring you the best climbing reviews. Their primary downside is that a firm grip is required on the brake strand of the rope at all times. The only real downside to the ATC Guide is that it lacks braking assistance. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Compared to most devices, it is heavy and larger, further lessening its use for multi-pitch climbing. We expect to see the Wild Country Revo grow in popularity in the near future, particularly for gym climbing and single-pitch cragging. The devices were sold in blue, gold, or purple and feature the word "VERGO" on the front plate of the unit. We often find them jerky when compared to tube devices. We begin the testing process by using each device for months in the field, and then finish up by comparative testing each device side-by-side, rating them on five metrics (catch and bite, feeding slack, rappelling and lowering, weight and bulk, and auto block) based upon how they perform compared to the competition. wcTopic.subscribe("ShoppingListItem_Added", function() { Your items will ship SAME DAY for orders placed before 3pm EST. Product Description Item No. wcTopic.subscribe("Quantity_Changed", function(catEntryQuantityObject) { }, It has as much rope-grabbing bite as the GriGri and GriGri+ and lowers in a similar manner. The devices that reliably catch like this are the Camp Matik, GriGri and GriGri+, and Trango Vergo. Though we found these comments were generally due to unfamiliarity with the device, it is worth noting many climbers (and gym employees) will initially distrust this model simply because it is not a GriGri. The brake end must always be in control and lower than the climber end for the mechanism to engage. After two recalls, Trango re-released what it calls the worlds most ergonomic belay device. So we put the Vergo assisted-braking belay to a first look test. You don't have to. GearJunkie may earn a small commission from affiliate links in this article. The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. Lowering felt similar to other assisted-braking devices: Particular care was prudent during the initial pull of the lowering handle to prevent rapid falls. Loading the Vergo is simple. Of course, every belay device here will catch a fall by arresting the rope provided they are used with proper technique, but due to their unique designs, the assisted braking devices tend to do this with more reliability and far less effort than a standard tube-style device. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. With an assisted braking device, whether passive or active, the slightest amount of gripping pressure on the brake rope will provide the tension and friction required to lock up the device, holding the climber in place. To load, pivot the faceplate and expose the rope track within the backplate. }, The Vergo is not super light considering its smallish size, weighing 7.1 ounces on our independent scale. Sign up to receive GearJunkie content direct to your inbox. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. "buyable" : "true", Good lowering action. GearLab is founded on the principle of honest, objective, reviews. While traditional tube-style devices are still a bit smoother and easier to manage, this one is the easiest to feed slack of all the active assist devices we have tested. I have switched back to a grigri. We want to make extra-sure you realize that you've added a special order item to your cart. The additional friction when top rope belaying is enough to make us reach for the GriGri when top roping is expected at least half of the time. Read more. Vergo & React Screwlock. Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. Your session is about to timeout due to inactivity. It's only a little bit lighter but a lot more compact. This way is confusing because it may seem backwards compared to a GriGri. With more practice and use, the Vergo has the potential to sway GRIGRI users. Rappelling and lowering accidents are two of the most common types of accidents and are often easily preventable. Enter your order number and email address below. And until the belayer masters these methods, it can be frustrating to release slack after the device has locked. When it comes to something you're likely to carry on your harness, the Edelrid Mega Jul, Petzl Verso and Reverso, and the Black Diamond ATC XP are the lightest options. It's about safe and easy use, so your partner remains safe up on the wall. This item: TRANGO Vergo Rock Climbing Belay Device. The primary drawback is that this model is only compatible with a single rope, similar to the most active assist devices, like the GriGri. I blame the gnomes and so should you. The long lowering handle did get crossed onto the opposite side of the lead strand once, but the correction was easy, and it never happened again. They use similar movements to tubes but require upward pressure on a handle or loop to disable the device's locking mechanism when feeding out slack quickly. In this video, athlete Ethan Pringle and Delaney Miller take the Vergo for a spin on the Eldorado Canyon classics The Wisdom and Apple Strudel. "ItemImage467" : "/wcsstore/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore///s7d1.scene7.com/is/image/MoosejawMB/10321689x1013861_zm?$product1000$", This is due to the wheel that the rope runs over, which greatly minimizes friction. We would not use it to belay a second off the anchor from above. When lowering a climber, the belayer uses a lever to release the grip on the rope. The Trango Vergo is a performance orientated, safety inspired assisted breaking belay device, designed for indoor wall and sport climbing. Unfortunately, though, belaying in this manner can create substantial friction with many of the device designs that can exhaust a belayer's shoulders and elbows, and in extreme usage, like for mountain guides, can lead to tendonitis. This recall involves Trango Vergo belay devices with batch numbers 16159 and 16195 printed on the side of the unit. The result is expert tested reviews and recommendations, rather than just a listing of a product's stats that anyone can glean off the internet. If the belayer is hit by a rock, slammed into the wall, or the rope somehow slips out of their grip, a falling climber will hit the deck and potentially sustain injury. Earn 10% back on every purchase & spend them on anything. A competitor to the Grigri and other auto locking devices, this works in a slightly different way. By pushing up and out with the thumb, the device has enough room to allow slack to pass through, which is fed to the climber by being yanked out the top. Belay device prices range from dirt cheap to surprisingly expensive. Great device. As you can see, the Vergo is a bit smaller than either of the GriGris, but it weighs the same amount as the heavier GriGri+. , Keeping control of the rope with the brake hand is essential. Simply pull a plastic lever to disengage the cam, and the rope begins to slide through the weighted device. The passive assisted braking devices require a solid brake hand on the rope at all times (as do all devices really). Andy is a lifelong climber with over 24 years of experience in all disciplines. No ads. Whether the weight is a critical component for you depends on a few things: whether or not you are climbing with your device on your harness, and whether or not you appreciate the "training" weight in your backpack. Get FREE 4-6 Day Ground Shipping on all orders over $49.00. The Vergo feeds and takes up slack freely; the feeling is second only to the Wild Country Revo. No cherry-picked units sent by manufacturers. Same belay technique as with tube-style devices, Emergency backup locks device if rope slips too fast. As the quality of rope manufacturing has increased, climbers are far more frequently using thinner ropes, with 8.9mm-9.2mm being much more common, and 9.5mm now being considered a reasonably fat "workhorse." It is relatively easy to learn the proper belay technique, and the device can be used easily for lead belaying, top-rope belaying and belaying the follower directly off the anchor. Additional shipping charges may apply. By opting out, you forfeit all the Moosejaw Rewards Dollars your currently have in your account, which is basically throwing away free money. The Vergo is a new belay device from Trango. Among the passive devices, we like the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Mammut Smart 2.0 the best. $109.95. The use of the Vergo during lead belaying just feels natural. The low end of the price range is populated by tube-style devices, whereas the more expensive models are the active assisted braking devices. Like all climbing gear these days, belay devices are getting lighter and smaller. Once signed in, you will see your available MJ$ and maximum that can be redeemed in the payment section of the checkout process. Trango touted the Vergo as an assisted-braking device that placed ergonomics first. The ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso have quite a bit more friction than the GriGris, but even worse is the Edelrid Giga Jul, and worse still is the Mammut Smart 2.0. We also teach other climbers and partners how to use each device and watch them learn and belay in order to notice problems, flaws, or benefits that we may have missed. Best of all, this device now accommodates ropes down to 8.5mm, keeping pace with the skinniest single rope on the market. The GriGri+ is very similar to the standard GriGri, but boasts several safety features not found on that model in an effort to reduce the risk of belayer error accidents. Before the leader heads up, check that this arrow doesn indeed point left, as it is here, which means that the device is oriented correctly. Product description The Vergo emphasizes ergonomics and human-device interaction to deliver exceptionally safe performance. Enjoy special offers available only to our account holders. I had the original back in 2016 and the long wait for the recall was frustrating. And, to assure complete independence, we buy all the products we test ourselves. The final consideration for this metric is the range of rope diameters that a belay device is capable of gripping. Still, we think the extra durability is worth the tradeoff of adding a couple of tenths of an ounce. Searching for the best climbing belay device? this video for instructions on how the Vergo works, How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing, the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews, Compact, ergonomically pays out slack while lead belaying, easy to use, Easy catch and hold, feeds slack smoothly, smooth lowering, handles ropes down to 8.5mm, Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value, Lightweight, small, great value, strong braking assistance, Lightweight, easy to unlock, great for belaying two skinny ropes, Too much friction pulling slack while top-rope belaying, hard to find the lowering sweet spot, A bit clunky, can only use one rope, takes time to master techniques, Rappelling and lowering autoblock is hard on the shoulders, brake assist friction depends on carabiner used, Softer aluminum seems less durable, not ideal with ropes thicker than 9.5mm, The gold standard remains the best and most popular belay device available today, An excellent value for multi pitch climbing, rappels, and double rope ascents, A great belay device for light-and-fast climbers and alpinists on hard multi pitch routes, A match made in rock heaven for skinny ropes and climbers counting weight. , We found it hard to get the lowering speed just right during our first dozen or so lowers. bvseo-msg: The resource to the URL or file is currently unavailable.. The issues with it come into play when belaying the leader on a traverse pitch without a ledge and stance or any time a soft catch would help. Tube-style belay devices are easy to operate with a traditional belay technique. Founded in 1991, Trango is a company of climbers who design products to improve the climbing experience. The directions on how the rope should be inserted in the device are clearly printed on the Vergo. If you return an item, we deduct the MJ$ earned on that item from your balance. Tension and speed are controlled by this handle, as well as the second hand on the brake strand, as shown. CharlieTN Well-Known Member Joined Sep 21, 2019 Messages 374 Oct 10, 2021 #2 The Trango Vergo and the Grigri + are both supposed to function the same as the Safeguard. This review is led by Andy Wellman, a Senior Reviewer at OutdoorGearLab since 2014. Worth noting is that while belaying the second up with the device clipped upside down directly to the anchor is okay as long as you keep the brake strand in your grip.
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